From garage sale find full of imperfections and scuffs, to refreshed, renewed and revitalized. This dining table is a furniture makeover must do. For whatever reason, this project was on the to do list for about six years and I FINALLY got around to it. This dining table went from drab to fab with a little paint, stencil and stain. No more hiding out under a table cloth for this beauty. Sometimes I wish it was as easy for me to take the years off as it was for this dining table makeover!
Not surprising, the table base was previously painted by yours truly in a navy blue. Doing so ties the neighboring entry and sitting room colors into the dining room. The center stencil was the same one used on the archways leading from the entry into the dining room. Repeating color and pattern helps to provide cohesion throughout the house…and it saves money, which I love.
Supply List
- Sand paper 80, 120, 220 grit
- Palm or orbital sander
- Eye protection
- Ear protection
- Mask
- Saw horses
- Extension Cord
- Rag(s)
- Tack cloth
- Stain, Varathane Jacobean
- Stir stick
- Paint Key
- Rubber mallet
- Paint (For table base and a tiny bit for the stencil)
- Stencil
- Stencil Brush
- Paper towel
- Paper plate or plastic tray
- Painter’s Tape
- Varathane Oil-based polyurethane
- Paint brush for oil based paints
- Tarp or old towel
- Disposable glove(s)
Instructions
Step 1:
Since I painted the table base a while back with Heirloom Traditions Paint, I only needed to work on the table top. The center table piece just lifts off and the extensions slide out to remove. With no screws to remove, disassembling the table top from the base was a breeze.
Once disassembled, I took the table top pieces outside and placed on two saw horses to sand.
TIP:Â Working outside leads to better ventilation and less clean up of sawdust. However, be sure to apply sunscreen and watch out for fire ants and bees! I may have received some bites and stings during this process.
Step 2:
Sand the finish off of the table top pieces. There was a build up of wax, varnish and, of course, the stain on the table. Starting with the 80 grit sand paper, which is rougher, I went to work sanding in the direction of the wood grain. This table is veneered and I had to be very careful to not sand too deep and ruin the beautiful pattern of the wood.
It was necessary to change out the sand paper multiple times due to the build up of wax that would embed on the sandpaper. Once the stain was removed from the wood, I went back over lightly with the 120 and 220 grit sandpaper to make the wood silky soft.
TIP:Â Use a hand broom to periodically sweep off the sawdust while sanding. Doing so will help to see sanding progress.
Step 3:
Clean off all the sawdust and particulates. To start, I brushed off the table top with the hand broom. Next, I used a damp (wrung out well) rag to wipe down the table top and remove most of the fine sawdust. Finally, I used tack cloth to pick up any trace bits of dust.
Step 4:
Bring Table pieces back inside.
Find the center of the table top both horizontally and vertically and mark with chalk if necessary. Fortunately, the table top I have is sectioned into four panels so the center was already marked with the joining of the panel pieces. Score!
Once the table center is determined, center your stencil over it. A larger stencil was originally planned for this until I noticed the beautiful wood pattern and I didn’t want to cover it up completely. Instead, I reused the stencil from the inside of the archways leading in to the dining room. This did two things. First and foremost, it helped to tie the rooms all together by repeating the pattern. Second, it made things extremely affordable because no additional stencil needed to be purchased.
Step 5:
Securely tape the edges of the stencil in place with painter’s tape. Any type of paint can be used to stencil. I used some left over Valspar “Her Dainties” chalk paint from previous furniture refinishing projects. Check out the post on stenciling below if you need further instructions.
With your stencil brush, dip the tip into paint and blot onto the paper towel until the brush seems almost dry. Use the loaded paint brush and pounce the brush up and down to distribute a thin layer of paint. Starting in the center and working out to the edges made sense to me for this project. Repeat the process until you are happy with the color and coverage of the paint. Two coats of paint was sufficient.
Step 6:
Let the paint dry thoroughly. Being on raw wood, this only takes like a minute. Remove the tape and the stencil. I often attempt to clean the stencils, but sometimes the paint does not come off so I just do what I can and leave any paint that is too stubborn to remove so as not to damage the design.
Step 7:
Use a stir stick to mix the stain well. Be sure to draw up any pigment that may have settled on the bottom of the can. Wear a glove(s) and apply stain by dipping a small rag into the stain and wiping onto the bare wood in the direction of the wood grain. Use a clean, dry rag to wipe off excess stain in the direction of the wood grain before the stain dries. Be sure to stain the edges of the table top!
Apply stain over your stenciled pattern and wipe up all stain before it dries. If you want a second coat of stain, apply again in two hours. Doesn’t that look awesome? Can we just take a moment to go bananas over the wood grain? Once this beauty is varnished, it is going to look AHH- MAZING!
When finished, wipe the groove of the can to remove any stain that may have collected. When clean, replace lid and tap with a rubber mallet to close completely. (Same clean up for can of Poly.)
TIP: Let stain dry for 24 hours if applying a water based finish and let dry for 8 hours if applying an oil based finish.
Step 8:
To apply the polyurethane, use a new piece of tack cloth to remove any dust or fuzz from the table surface. Use a stir stick to mix the polyurethane well. Follow directions on the can for best results.
Basically, apply a layer of poly in the direction of the wood grain with a good quality (non shedding) synthetic bristle brush. Do not over brush/ over work when applying. Let dry 4 hours between coats. Apply a minimum of three coats for best results.
TIP: To apply the poly all in one day, I paint and stain on day one and then start first thing in the morning of day two with the polyurethane process. (8am, 12 pm, 4pm) If there are more than 24 hours between coats of poly, a light sanding is in order.
TIP:Â Wrap brush in plastic wrap between coats to keep the brush from drying out and to prevent having to clean it after each coat.
Allow 24 hours to dry for light use and 3 days before normal usage. I chose oil based poly for this table even though it has a slight amber cast to it because it is extremely durable and holds up well to heat.
Even though completely sanding down to bare wood takes time, it can produce some amazing results when working with a wood piece with gorgeous grain detail. Once this table was stripped, I knew I could not completely cover the beautiful burl wood pattern on the top.
I can not even express how awesome it is to have the dining room complete! Being that it is one of the first rooms seen when entering the house, and I no longer have to hide the dining table under a tablecloth, I can joyfully let this beauty claim the attention it deserves. Now on to finishing up the projects in the kitchen and continuing with making my house a home. 💙
Furniture Related Posts
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Tutorial on Painting a Paneled Door
How to Test if Paint is Oil Based
It looks great! Have you ever replaced table legs? I’ve been thinking of doing that with my dining table.
Thank you. I haven’t replaced table legs but it seems completely doable. What are you looking at for a replacement? I know many home improvement stores sell the supplies to DIY it. Be sure to send me any photos or questions and I will do my best to research things for you. Can’t wait to see what you have planned!