Guide To Successful Stenciling

Before I start you off with a stencil project, it is probably best to go over some basics. The country geese with hearts bordered around the kitchen is a thing of the past in the world of stencils. Now there are so many useful and fabulous designs that can really make a statement on a wall or project. This basic tutorial will help get you started with confidence as you learn to stencil. Of course, practice and experience are the best tools to have in your tool belt. This stencil tutorial will help you get there.

SUPPLY LIST

Stencil Supplies: Paint, Stencil, palette, stencil brushes, masking tape, chalk, levels, paper towel, permanent marker, stool, and string. — Stencil Supplies

Stencil
Paint or Stencil Creme

Floors will need a special paint for durability, fabrics will need a washable paint, there are acrylic paints, chalk paint, furniture paint, or paints/cremes made specifically for stencils-all of which can work with stencils.

Stencil Brush, or brushes

You don’t need the most expensive brush available. I prefer the stiff bristled ones as opposed to the foam tipped brushes. I feel the foam holds too much paint and leads to paint bleeding under the stencil edge.

Chalk

To mark the center of the wall and to mark the reference dots for the stencil. Just wipe off the chalk when done.

Permanent Marker
Level
Paper Plate or something to use as a palette
Paper towel(s)
Dental Floss, String, or Yarn

Used to help measure and find the center of the wall, arch, object. Yarn has a bit of stretch so it’s not ideal, but it can work.

Scissors
Masking Tape
Step Stool
Stencil Adhesive

Optional. I have never actually used the adhesive but just the masking tape to hold the stencil in place.

INSTRUCTIONS:

Clean:

Clean your item or area you plan to stencil so that it is free of dust or debris that could impact the design. Wash and dry any fabric item that you plan to stencil to remove any of the sizing agent (starch that makes new fabric crisp and resist water) from new fabric. Follow washing instructions on fabric or item for best results.

Finding the Center:

Find the center of your item or wall. Here is where the string/floss/yarn comes into play.

First, place the end of the string on one end of your item or wall (you could tape it if needed) and pull the string across to the opposite side of the item or wall. Try to keep it as level as possible. Cut the end so it measures equally to the end of the area you are measuring. Now put the two cut ends together to find the middle of the string. Viola. Now you have the exact center. You can mark the center of the string by folding it to make a crease, or mark the center of the string with a pen, etc. Put the cut end on the first side of the item or wall and re-stretch the string across until you come to the marked middle. Mark your item or wall with chalk to mark the center. I have tried too many times to do the math only to have it be off just a fraction, but enough that it is not perfectly center. This string method will save your brain from strain and it is correct every time.

Finally, repeat this method going perpendicular to your first mark and where the two marks intersect, it will form a “+” that is the exact center. Feel free to use the level to continue these lines with chalk all the way to the end of your item or wall you want stenciled. This will help with keeping the design straight when you repeat the pattern.

Secure Your Stencil:

Center your stencil over the mark you made. You can use the level to ensure that your edges are straight. If your item is small, the level may not be necessary. Apply information as needed. Use masking tape to secure the stencil in place.

If you are using the spray adhesive (spray adhesive provides a temporary hold and should allow for re-positioning; cost ranges $6- $18) apply to adhesive prior to positioning stencil over the center. See spray adhesive instructions on the side of the can for best results.

Masking Off:

If there is an outlet or light switch on the wall you are working on, remove the cover plate and mask off the outlet or switch with masking tape. Furthermore, if you are stenciling a wall, place tape along the edges of the adjoining walls to mask off the area from paint transfer when you are stenciling into the corners. Same goes for the ceiling and along the baseboard.

Applying Pigment:

Pour a quarter sized amount of paint on a plate or palette. I recommend starting with the lightest color first. Dip the blunt stenciling brush into the paint. On a clean section of plate smoosh the brush to distribute paint evenly. Dab on the paper towel until very little paint remains. You basically want to dry brush the color on over the stencil. If too much paint is loaded on the brush, the paint will bleed under the edge of the stencil and will look messy, especially with textured walls. It is much better to build up the color with multiple thin coats of paint than to do one thick coat of paint.

Compare the upper right quadrant (where paint was applied properly) to the lower left quadrant (where I didn’t dab paint off before applying to the stencil). Can you see the difference? It really does matter how the paint is applied.

Pouncing:

Pounce the brush to transfer the paint. Pouncing is when you hold the pigment loaded brush and repeatedly tap it against the stencil and surface you are painting. Think of it as a little paint woodpecker. Fair warning: if you are stenciling a large area, this will be tiring for your arms. This repetitive activity burns many calories and builds muscle, right? Be sure to cover the entire pattern of the stencil prior to removing the stencil. Remove stencil when done.

Continuing the Stencil Pattern:

If you are continuing a linear pattern, or if you are covering an entire wall or floor, use the reference dots to line up the stencil. I use chalk to mark the dots onto the wall before removing the stencil. When I am lining up the stencil in the new spot, I use those same chalk dots to overlap the reference dots on the stencil. Be sure to utilize the level to maintain a straight pattern across the area to be painted.

Move the stencil around each time you finish painting so that the edges of the stencil do not overlap wet paint and smear the design.

Suggestion of a possible stencil layout pattern to avoid stencil edges from smearing wet paint.

Stenciling Around Obstacles:

If you are stenciling a wall and an outlet or switch ends up in the middle of the stencil pattern, remove the cover plate and mask off the outlet or switch. It will be a little bumpy. Carefully work around the obstacle. It may be necessary to use your free hand to hold the edges of the stencil flush with the wall while applying paint. Securing the edges well with masking tape is a crucial part of this step.

Stenciling a Corner:

Very rarely, if ever, does a pattern work out to where the edges perfectly line up with the corners of the wall. When you get to a tricky corner:

First, be sure the wall that you don’t want any paint on is masked off with painter’s tape.

Second, line up your stencil with the existing pattern that you have painted, being sure to secure the edges well on the stenciled wall.

Third, gently push the stencil into the corner with out causing sharp creases.

Fourth, paint the stencil and when you get to the corner, use your free hand to hold the stencil down at each section as you pounce the brush.

Finally, when done, you can remove the stencil and masking tape and you will get a nice, clean line.

Side Note to Pattern Centering:

Depending on your pattern and over all look, you may want the full stencil at the top of the wall. Generally, there is furniture or something that obscures the bottom of the wall and therefore makes the pattern discrepancy less noticeable near the ground.

If you do want the full pattern at the top of the wall, find the center of the wall as mentioned above, and mark the vertical center line with chalk. Next, center your stencil against the ceiling and with the center chalk mark on the wall. A word of caution: many houses do not have ceilings and walls that are perfectly square, so you may want to take this into account when lining up the stencil. For most patterns it won’t be that big of a deal, but there may be some patterns that have a straight line as a border that will accentuate a crooked ceiling.

Clean Up:

There are some stencil cleaning products out there, and the stencils I have bought have each come with instructions on how to best clean the stencil. I recommend cleaning the stencil soon after you use it and to wash it very gingerly so as to maintain all of the fine detail. Also, I like to store my stencils so that there is not a chance of them getting bent. Some of them were expensive and I don’t want them damaged! Mine are currently stored on the top of the crafting armoire, and in their original packaging. So it totally doesn’t have to be fancy.

Get Stenciling!

These are the basics. So get out there and get a project done. Be sure to schedule enough time to get your project finished, and remember that I have a list of recipes if you need a dinner simmering away in the slow cooker while you work. I look forward to seeing your projects and how you are making a house a home. 💙