Makeover, Projects

How To Install Smart Tiles (with videos)

Peel and Stick tile

Peel and stick tiles for a kitchen backsplash? Would that work? Would it look tacky? How would it hold up? These were all questions that ran through my mind when I first saw Smart Tiles. I am here for you and am willing to test out a product so you can make an informed decision.

Our kitchen backsplash was generic floor tile from original construction because we didn’t want to invest in an upgrade that we didn’t love from the design center. We want to replace it, I just haven’t found the tile that speaks to me yet. In the meantime, I tested out Smart Tiles to see how they look in person, how difficult they are to install, and if they will hold up over time.

Smart Tile Backsplash
Easy upgrade from builder’s grade basic tiles to adhesive tile sticker backsplash in subway style tiles.

Choosing a Tile

First, I ordered a sample of a tile that I liked the best. A plain subway tile is a classic look but I didn’t want a pure white because all of my trim and doors are painted in a slight off white color. It was important to keep the tile simple to go with the boldly painted island and the patterned granite counter tops. I choose Metro Gallino tile which is an off white, or cream color. My granite counters have that same cream color in them so it will look good together.

Unfortunately, the tiles arrived without much instruction and the online video did not really give me much more insight into applying the stickers to existing tile. My main concern was that the adhesive tiles are recommended for smooth surfaces and glass. Neither of those scenarios represented my situation. I experimented with filling the grout lines before applying the tiles. Caulking seemed like a good choice because it would work on tile and wouldn’t flake or get mildew. Turns out, that is not the perfect choice.

Manufacturers Instructions. Being that only a third of it was in English, there wasn’t a whole lot of guidance.

Here is the process I used, which was figured out by trial and error, so now you can learn what works and what doesn’t work.


Supply List

For Cleaning Prep:

  • Deglosser/degreaser like TSP, Liquid Sandpaper, etc.
  • Scotch Brite pad to scrub
  • Gloves -disposable, or reusable kitchen gloves
  • Clean towel(s)

 

To Fill Grout Lines:

  • Tape- masking or painter’s tape
  • Putty knife
  • Caulking (turns out this isn’t the best thing to use) perhaps spackle would work better
  • Utility knife
  • Caulking gun, if needed

 

For Applying Tiles:

  • Tiles
  • Hard surface for cutting (masonite, a few layers of cardboard, scrap wood, etc)
  • T square ruler
  • Metal ruler
  • Ultra thin permanent marker
  • Sharp utility knife
  • Brayer roller (optional)

Instructions

Step 1:

Select your tile and measure the space to figure out how much tile you need to order. Measuring is as simple as finding the surface area. Multiply the height of the backsplash area to be tiled by the length of the area to be tiled. My backsplash is broken up into different sections, so I found the surface area for each section and then added all of those sections together.

TIPS:

Online, there is often a calculator plug in when selecting the tile and the quantity needed. Just apply the height of the space to be tiled by the length of the space. It will calculate it for you.

Be sure to add extra tiles so you don’t run short due to cutting mishaps, or tricky areas. Add at least 10-20% to your order. (I had a few tricky areas and used some of my extra tiles just because of how the tile had to line up. I couldn’t use the scraps from other pieces but had to cut a new tile to match up the pattern.)


Step 2:

Tape off around the perimeter of the tile to prevent the degreaser and deglosser from damaging any counter tops, woodwork or cabinetry finishes. Use the degreaser and deglosser on a scotch brite scrub pad to scrub the existing backsplash. Be sure to wear gloves to protect your hands from the chemicals. You can also wear eye protection and make sure the area is well ventilated.

Work in a manageable section and scrub well. Finish up by wiping with a clean cloth to remove any of the loose dirt and grease.

Prepping the existing tile
Tape off around existing tile backsplash, scrub tiles with TSP, wipe off with clean cloth.

TIP:

Be sure to start with a cleared counter top that has been wiped down prior to taping. The clean surface will allow the tape to stick.

Put a towel, or something, down on the counter to protect the surface as you degloss and degrease.


Step 3:

Now to fill in the grout lines. I tried two different types of caulk. I debated trying spackle but didn’t have any on hand. After talking with my sister we thought that the caulking might be better because it is used to seal around sinks, faucets, and in between counters and tile backsplashes. There was concern that spackle would not adhere well to the grout and would pull up.

After filling the grout lines in a small area with the caulking, I smoothed it out with a putty knife. The tiles were not evenly set so there were some areas I attempted to float out a little better to ease the transition.

Fill in grout lines
The white caulking worked better than the clear tub and tile caulking, but neither are the perfect solution.

TIP:

The DAP ALEX Fast Dry caulk for paint projects worked better than the Clear Tile & Tub caulk. The tile and tub caulk also had a strong smell to it.

In the long run, like a month down the road, the tile stickers did not adhere well to the clear tub and tile caulk so it bubbles slightly where that caulking was applied. The white, paintable caulk had better sticker adhesion, but still bubbled slightly. I wish I tried the spackle, my first inclination, to test the adhesion. But at least you know what doesn’t work.


Step 4:

Once the prep work is done, remove the tape and throw it away. Clean the tools you used, wash your hands, and then you are ready to start applying the tiles.

This can be a little nerve racking because it’s tricky to remove the back and apply without touching the adhesive backing. Don’t worry. Your sticker collecting days from childhood have prepared you for this. Think back to your Trapper Keeper and your sticker collection and how to remove the paper backing. You got this.


Step 5:

Overlay tile edges
The side with the writing on the grout is a little thicker and can be used for slight adjustments in tile alignment. The paper backing peels off to reveal the silver sided sticky backing.

The tile stickers overlap each other. One edge has a thicker “grout line” than the other side. This thicker edge also has printing on it that will be overlapped by the next sticker, so it is important that you start to lay the tiles in the correct direction. It is a pain to have to lift up one edge to then cover the edge that has words. I may have made things difficult for myself in my test area.

TIP:

It is easiest to start on a straight edge and work your way around the backsplash. Start from the bottom near the counter top and work up, row by row.

In my small test corner I attempted to work from the inside corner and out both ways to the edges. Terrible idea. It was fine going one direction but doing the adjacent wall led to working backwards with the overlapping grout line. Way too tricky and frustrating to let you go through that same experience.


Step 6:

When starting at the straight edge, you want your tiles to be straight also. DO NOT mark the front of the tiles. Turn them over and use the T square and an ultra fine tip permanent marker to draw the cut lines on the paper backing. Then switch to the metal ruler and utility knife to cut along the line you drew. Once complete, and if no other cuts need to be made for outlets, carefully peel off the backing and stick to the backsplash. Avoid touching the sticker back. Dirt, oils and skin cells from fingers on the sticker will prevent proper adhesion.

Continue this process along the bottom of the backsplash and work your way up to the cabinets.

Mark backing to cut
Use the T square and a fine tipped permanent marker on the paper backing. Cut with a metal ruler and the utility knife.

TIPS:

Peel only a section of the paper back at a time to prevent touching the adhesive.

Keep any cut tile remnants in case they can be used later.

Keep the paper backings that haven’t been cut to later use as templates for around tricky edges.

Use a brayer roller, if you have one, to roll over the stickers to ensure good contact with the surface.


Step 7:

To cut around an outlet, use a discarded paper backing from a previous tile, or hold up a new tile unit to mark location of the outlet.

How to cut around an outlet
The blue lines represent the cuts for an outlet that were measured and made on the back side of the tiles.

If using a paper backing as a template, align the paper with existing tiles and use your finger to make creases where the edges of the outlet are. Draw lines and cut out the hole. Hold the paper template up to the wall again to make sure everything aligns properly before tracing onto the tile back and cutting the tile. If everything lines up well, go ahead and trace, cut and stick on tile.

If using a tile, hold up tile with backing still on it to the location where it will be placed. Carefully flip the tile face down to the counter, being sure edges still line up (more like corner to corner now). Use the ruler to line up the edge of the outlet and mark on the tile back. Hold that same piece of tile, face down, along the backsplash to mark the height of the top and bottom of the outlet. I know this sounds super confusing, so watch video 3 above to see how to do it.


Step 8:

To cut around tricky cabinet edges, use the left over paper backings. This makes things 1,000 times easier. Seriously. I pulled some of my paper backings out of the trash just so I could use them as templates.

Cut tiles around cabinets
Use one of the paper backings to make a template for under cabinets. Line up the paper with the installed tile, crease it, cut out template and make sure it fits correctly. Trace onto back of the tile, being sure to line up in the correct direction and then cut tile.

Line up the paper backing with the tiles that are attached to the wall. Depending on how complicated the area, it may take more steps. Basically, line up the tile paper and crease where the cabinet edge is and then draw a straighter line with the ruler. Cut the paper and hold it back up to see how well it fits. Adjust as necessary. Same concept for tricky areas. There will just be more angles and cuts in the paper until you get it right. If you mess up the template, no big deal. Just throw that paper away and try again.


Step 9:

Inside corners. For the most part, I tried to put the tile pieces as tight as I could into the corners. It wasn’t too difficult. What I have notices over time (over nearly two months) is that any of the tile pieces that have a thin cut in the corner may pop up. Maybe that piece was touched too much when trying to lay it down? Maybe the thin section leaves too little surface area for great adhesion? Whatever the case, I have one tile that is being rebellious now. I will probably just glue it down with some E6000 because that is what I have on hand. Fortunately, it is behind my stand mixer so it is not really visible.

Smart Tile kitchen backsplash
Start from one end and work in the same direction for the length of the backsplash. Work up to the cabinetry and then cut out around the cabinets.

Smart Tile Pros and Cons

Pros

  • Easy to use
  • Minimal time and mess for installation
  • Easy care, just wipe clean with a soft, damp cloth
  • Minimal cost compared to tile, grout, tools and installer
  • Can be removed
  • Easy and clean look to transform a space

Cons

  • No great tutorials or advice available by the company
  • What works best to fill preexisting grout lines?
  • Inside corners can be tricky
  • Limited style and tile layouts
  • No free samples
Kitchen Tile Backsplash
Finished look of the Smart Tile backsplash in off white subway tiles.

Overall, I am happy with my purchase. This really is a great option for a quick change in the look of a kitchen with minimal cost. It also helps me with deciding my permanent tile choices. I would probably be more disappointed in the existing grout line showing if this was my permanent tile look. For now, it’s a much needed change to my kitchen especially since we currently are home 24-7 and congregating in the kitchen to do school work. Let me know your thoughts, questions and opinions in the comments. In the meantime, enjoy making your house a home. πŸ’™


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4 thoughts on “How To Install Smart Tiles (with videos)”

    1. First of all, thank you! Second,that’s what they claim. I tried it with the sample and it worked. Down the line when we totally redo the backsplash with real tiles, I will try removing again. I’ll give an update at that time.

  1. THANK YOU for posting this! Very informative!
    I noticed that you have a space of about 3” from backsplash to stove top (guesstimate), have you had any issues with the tile giving way due to heat from cooking?
    Also, I LOVE the blue tile under your island! Do you have more info on that available?
    Thanks again!

    1. Thank you for your questions. There are about 4.5 inches from the metal stove frame to the backsplash and 8 inches from the burner to the backsplash, so it’s not too close to the open flame. Thank goodness. I have not had any issues so far with the tiles lifting due to heat or moisture. I wipe up any splatters with a wrung out damp cloth and even spaghetti sauce has wiped off just fine without staining.
      I am also so glad you asked about the island “tiles”. They are actually stenciled on! I was going for the tile look so you made my day with that question. If you type “island” into the search box on this blog, the post with all the information will pop up. Here’s the link, but I am not certain if it will work through the comments. This will be the test, haha. Thanks again. πŸ™‚ https://tingedblue.com/kitchen-island-ideas/

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