If you haven’t caught on by now, or if you are new to this blog, I kind of dig DIY. Not surprising is my desire to update or personalize each room in the house. The laundry room is next up on the TO DO list and I decided to start with the lighting. While the fluorescent workshop style light is very useful, it was not very stylish. An easy swap out of the light and I’m on to the next task.
The responsible thing to do is clearly state that I am not a licensed electrician and therefore I am not telling you how to change out a light fixture. But as a friend I will explain the steps that I took to change out my ceiling light. You can make your own decisions and take full responsibility for your own decisions, right?
Fortunately, I got lucky when I removed the fluorescent shop light. The builders actually textured before the light was put in so I don’t have to patch any texturing, just the holes from mounting, woohoo!
This three bulb semi flush pendant light in matte black was on sale at Joss and Main, but it is currently $193. Well, from an earlier post about finding affordable lighting (here) you know that I like to find a bargain. Mission accomplished- the same light is $73.99 at Home Depot. Find the link  here.
Here’s how I change out ceiling lights.
Supply List
- New Light
- Ladder
- Flat head screw driver
- Phillips head screw driver
- Needle nosed pliers
- Wire stripper
- Voltage Tester
- Standard Wire Connectors (usually come with new light)
- Work lights
- Screws and Mounting plate (should be with new light)
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Instructions
Step 1:
Before we can work on any light, removal or installation, the power needs to be turned off. Locate your electrical box and flip the circuit off for the designated location.
TIP: Use the battery operated work lights to help illuminate your work area. My laundry room is void of any windows so this was a necessary step. Another option would be to use a head lamp. Of course, I thought of the headlamp just now and not when it would have been useful.
Step 2:
To remove the fluorescent light, remove the plastic cover to expose the bulbs. The cover should pop off when gently pulled on one side. Place to the side at a safe distance from where you are working.
Step 3:
Rotate the tube bulbs carefully to line up the channels that hold the tube bulb in place. Once lined up, the bulb can be carefully pulled out. Set tubes aside where they will not get broken.
Step 4:
There is a metal cover over the wiring, it reminds me of a rain gutter. Anyway, remove it by pinching the sides towards each other and slipping the edge out from the clips. Set aside.
Step 5:
Untwist the black, white and copper wires from their counterparts. Test with the voltage tester first to double check that the wires are not hot (have electricity running through them). Lucky me, I discovered the electrician that initially installed this light never connected the grounding wire. Seriously? The grounding wire is important to reduce the risk of electrical shock or fire. There is a sudden impulse to check all the other lights in the house.
Use one of the screwdrivers to remove the bolts or screws holding the light into the ceiling. Just kind of depends on what was used to install it as to which screwdriver will work best. Pull light down and set aside.
Step 6:
Remove new lighting from its box and be sure you have all the necessary pieces. In general, an outlet box should already be installed in the ceiling. If you have a really old house and the electrical isn’t up to code, or if you are wanting to hang a heavy chandelier and the outlet box isn’t framed out, call a licensed electrician to deal with these problems.
Fun fact: Every time I install a new light there are instructions and a diagram, in multiple languages, included with the packaging. Great for looking at prior to installation or as a reference.
Step 7:
The mounting screws (screws that the light canopy will use with the ball nuts to hold it up) should be attached and adjusted to the proper length and pointing towards the ground on the mounting crossbar or plate.
Fasten the crossbar or plate to the outlet box with two outlet box screws (usually provided). Be sure the green grounding screw head is facing down towards you.
Step 8:
Once secure, connect the wires.
Connect the grounding wire (green or bare copper) from the fixture to the to the grounding wire from the outlet box or to the green ground screw on the crossbar. Use wire connectors to twist the ends together or loop the copper wire to the green screw.
Connect the house white wire to the fixture white wire. Connect the black house wire to the black fixture wire. The house wire is a thicker metal wire, you may need to strip some of the wire insulation from the end with wire strippers. The fixture wire is a bunch of thin wires encased in wiring insulation. It is easier to wrap the thin wires around the thicker wire and then twist on a wire connector to secure. Be sure no bare wires can be seen outside the wire connectors. Tuck the wires into the outlet box carefully.
Step 9:
Push the canopy over the outlet box. The mounting screws will protrude through the mounting holes on the canopy. Use the ball nuts and screw on until snug. This will keep the canopy in place. The canopy should be flush with the ceiling. If there is space, remove the canopy and adjust the mounting screws. It is annoying to have to redo these steps but it is necessary and will be worth it.
Side note: Be sure the fixture is suitable for the location. For example, if installing in a damp location (like outside) the light fixture should be rated for exterior use and/or damp locations.
Step 10:
Install at least one light bulb, in the rating appropriate for the fixture. There will be a sticker somewhere on the fixture that tells you the appropriate bulb size and wattage.
Turn the electricity back on at the main circuit breaker and then test out the light to be sure it is working. If it is good, attach the glass shade. Getting the glass shade on and cleaning it was probably the most time consuming part. I dropped one of the screws and had to take 5-10 minutes to find it. I’m just glad that it didn’t roll under the washer and dryer. Phew!
That is all there is to it! Replacing the shop light with a more modern and stylish fixture just gives a cheerier vibe to the laundry room. Now I just need to move the cabinet up, paint, add a shelf, install some built ins, get a new rug, and possibly a feature wall of some sort. Yep, I definitely have more projects on the horizon for this laundry room. Honestly, I wouldn’t want it any other way.
Enjoy making a house a home!
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