Floating Desk DIY for At Home Learning

Create an inexpensive and easy learning space. Keep your kids out in the open when online while the kitchen table stays clutter free. This project was mostly done by my son (11 years old at the time), but there were a few times when extra hands were needed. A great desk project for you and your kids to create ownership over their workspace.

We created this floating desk to function as a schoolwork space, a project workspace, or a Lego building area. The floating desk was put on the half wall in the game room upstairs. There were two outlets in that area which made the perfect location for adding a desk lamp, or to plug in electronics. I also added a steel bar with magnets to hold up instruction books or reminders while giving it a rustic/industrial look.

Supply List

3/4″ Plywood, choose a nicer, clear board
1×4, cut to desired length
Stud Finder
Sand Paper or sanding block
Sander
cut off saw/circular saw/hand saw
Primer
Paint
Varnish, Epifanes high gloss clear marine varnish
Paint brush or roller
Paint tray
Stir Stick
Shelving brackets plus mounting screws
Level
Screws about 2 inches long
Cordless Drill
Bits
Nails, 1-1.5 inches
Hammer
Tape measure
Finishing nails
Clear silicone caulk
Accessories

Instructions

Step 1:

Locate an area that will best support the space for a floating desk and measure to determine the appropriate size. We had a half wall that was slightly recessed from the rest of the game room. This created the perfect nook to add a workspace, or floating desk. The recess was deep enough to bring the depth of the desk to 22 inches.

Step 2:

Use a stud finder to locate the studs in the wall. (Insert Dad joke about them being the stud that was found) Mark with a pencil or chalk for future reference.

TIP: Place a strip of painters tape horizontally along the wall. Mark on the painters tape when each stud is located. This way, there are no pencil marks left on the wall that need paint touch up.

Step 3:

Screw the 1×4 along the wall, being sure that it is level, and with each screw placed in the center of the stud to create the strongest support. The board is 29 inches from the floor, leaving plenty of leg room and making the desk top about 30 inches high.

I put the 1×4 along the length of the wall that would be the back of the desk and also along the side wall, but just shy of the 22″ desk depth.

TIP: The 1×4 is about 3/4 of an inch thick, be sure to accommodate when measuring the shorter support 1×4 piece.

TIP: Be sure to use a little sandpaper on the edges of the cut 1×4 to knock off any rough spots of wood.

Step 4:

Depending on how long the desk is, you will have a different number of shelf brackets. Be sure to align the shelf brackets with the studs and to purchase brackets long enough to support the desk but short enough that the ends stay under the desk. Mine are 8×9 inch brackets. They make longer shelf brackets, but at the time this was the longest size in stock at the home improvement store. I looked for brackets that had a low profile so there was plenty of leg room under the desk.

Once the placement of the brackets is determined, add a vertical piece of 1×4 to line up with the length of the bracket (plus one inch) and to create a strong surface to support the bracket and shelf. I cut the corners off of our vertical wood pieces just to look fancier than a square block of wood. I doubt anyone else notices that detail, but do what makes you happy. Mark where the bracket mounting holes are on the vertical 1×4 pieces. Be sure they are centered.

Floating Shelf — Adding the 1×4 provides a solid base for the brackets and adds strength to the desk top.

TIP: Be sure that the screw(s) that attach the 1x4s onto the wall will not interfere with the screws that attach the shelf bracket to the 1x4s. Just keep it in mind and adjust accordingly.

Tip: If you plan to paint the 1x4s or the wall, paint before adding the brackets. Way easier to paint things now than having to cut in around shelving brackets or a desk.

Step 5:

Once all of the 1x4s are attached to the wall, add the shelf brackets. Remember to have the brackets with the longer side along the bottom of the desk! Also, be sure that the brackets will be added so that the plywood rests on both the brackets and the 1×4 for maximum support. (We used two people for this. One to hold up the desk top while I held up and marked a rough placement of the brackets in pencil. Later I centered those marks with a level)

Attach the shelf brackets. If you mess up, don’t worry, just fix it and use a little wood putty to fill in any unwanted holes in the 1x4s. Once dry, sand and paint.

Step 6:

In the meantime, the plywood top can be cut, sanded and painted.

We had the home improvement store cut along the length of the plywood to make a nice straight cut for the depth of our desk (22 inches along the entire 8 feet of plywood.) I don’t have a table saw so I took advantage of the home improvements store’s offer to cut it for me. If you know how long the desk should be, now is the perfect time to get that cut done also.

Painting Plywood — Prime the raw wood to seal it and then paint with desired color. We matched the accent wall in the Game Room.

TIP: It may be nice to have a notch cut out along the back side of the desk for cords to go through. An after thought to this project is that I would add a power strip to the underside of the desk with a notch near by so there is a way to plug in multiple lamps or devices while eliminating cords that run along the desk and drape over the sides.

I chose a higher grade plywood so that the surface was smoother, aka no knots. A smooth surface makes for a better writing surface.

Once home, my son lightly sanded the plywood to remove any snags or rough edges. Be sure to wear appropriate protective gear for your eyes, ears and for breathing.

He then cleaned it off and primed the raw wood. Depending on the paint you have there may be a built in primer. Once the primer was dry, he rolled on two coats of paint (left over from painting the angled wall in the game room).

Step 7:

To minimize the inevitable injuries from the pointed corner of the desk, we decided to cut it off. I measured three inches from the outside corner on the short side and 3.5 inches from the outside corner on the long side. Then I drew a straight line across to connect those two marks; using my circular saw to cut off that corner. This could totally be done earlier in the desk making process but we were experimenting and I let my son take the creative lead, so there you have it.

Angled Corner — Cutting off the corner helps to eliminate possible hip and leg bruising. Trim with one inch wide pieces of wood to make a nice finished edge.

Step 8:

After the brackets are in place, you can add the plywood top. Butt the corner of the plywood into the corner of the wall as tightly and evenly as possible. Be sure to use screws that are the correct length when attaching the brackets to the desk. If the screws are too long, they will poke out through the top of the desk. That would not be awesome.

Once the brackets were attached to the plywood, I also used nails along the top edge to nail through the plywood and into the 1×4 to give additional stability. It may not have been needed but we thought it looked cool. A nail gun would be faster and easier, if you have one.

Attaching floating desk to wall — Be sure the shelf brackets screws are the correct length prior to screwing the plywood to the brackets. Fill the gap along the wall, and any in the 1x4s with caulking and add nails to decorate and further secure the desk top.

Step 9:

Our walls are not perfect, like most homes, so I ended up filling any gaps along the seams with clear caulk. Once the bead of caulk was added, I smoothed it with my finger to work it into the cracks and to give it a finished look. Let caulking dry.

We had left over pallet wood from a wood feature wall in the game room that we cut into thin one inch wide strips, slightly wider than the plywood thickness. Finishing nails were used to nail this trim into place along the edge of the desk.

Step 10:

Marine varnish was added to the top of the desk and to the trim pieces for additional protection. I mostly just wanted to test out marine varnish. That stuff is tough when it dries! It is not perfectly clear so it may cast a slight amber hue to whatever you are varnishing, but it seems bullet proof. Not literally, of course, but no water damage will occur on that desk any time soon.

That is all there is to it. Accessorize as needed or desired and you are good to go. We found some industrial stackable chairs online at Wal-Mart that were the best price. We also liked that the backs were slightly lower so the entire chair could be pushed under the desk top to clear plenty of space in the game room should an impromptu Nerf war or lazer tag game be necessary.

Desk with no legs — Using left over paint and pallet wood helped to reduce the cost of the project and it coordinates the different areas of the same room.

Making a space that is functional and keeps other areas of the home functional, like the kitchen, is crucial to making a livable work space. Little did we know when my son built this desk that it would be such a critical work space for his younger brother four years later. No matter what this new school year looks like for you, making a usable work area is just another way to make a house a home. 💙